One of the big selling points of artificial grass is that it is easy to look after, and it is, as long as you go about it the right way. There is no mowing or feeding, but a lawn still gathers leaves, dust, the odd spill and, if you have pets, a bit more besides. A simple routine keeps it fresh and draining for years. Here is how to clean artificial grass properly, and just as importantly, what to avoid.
The simple everyday routine
Most of the time, keeping a lawn clean takes very little. The two jobs that do nearly all the work are brushing and rinsing. A regular brush with a stiff broom or a specialist grass brush lifts the pile back up where feet have flattened it, and it stops the blades matting down in the busy spots. Always brush against the lean of the pile, as that is what makes the blades stand up rather than lie flatter.
A rinse with the hose every so often washes off dust, pollen and the general grime that settles on any outdoor surface. In the UK, rain does a fair bit of this for you, so for a lawn with no pets you may only need to rinse it in a dry spell. Those two habits, done now and then, keep most lawns looking after themselves.
Clearing leaves, moss and debris
The single most useful thing you can do is keep the surface clear of debris, especially in autumn. Fallen leaves, twigs and blossom left to sit will rot down into the pile, and that rotting material is exactly what feeds moss and gives airborne weed seeds somewhere to take root. Clear it and you head off both problems before they start.
A plastic leaf rake, a stiff broom or a leaf blower on a low setting all work well. Avoid a metal rake, which can catch and pull at the fibres. For moss that has already taken hold in a shady corner, brush it out once it is dry and treat the area with a moss killer that is safe for artificial grass if it keeps coming back. Keeping the spot clear and letting a little more air and light to it is the long-term fix.
It is worth being a little more thorough once the trees are bare for winter. A build-up of rotted leaf mulch sitting over the drainage holes in the backing is the main thing that stops a lawn draining as freely as it should, so a proper clear-out at the end of autumn protects the surface as much as it tidies it.
Removing stains and spills
Most everyday spills, be it drinks, food, mud or sun cream, come out easily if you deal with them reasonably promptly. The method is almost always the same:
- Lift off or blot up as much of the spill as you can first, rather than rubbing it in.
- Rinse the area with plenty of water from the hose.
- For anything that remains, use warm water with a little mild washing-up liquid and a soft brush.
- Rinse again thoroughly so no soap residue is left behind.
Stickier marks like chewing gum or candle wax are easier to deal with cold: a bag of ice hardens them so they lift off cleanly. For the vast majority of stains, warm soapy water and patience do the job. There is rarely any need for anything stronger.
Dealing with pet mess and smells
If you have a dog, this is the part of cleaning that matters most. Solid mess should be picked up promptly, as it would be on a real lawn. It will not break down into the surface on its own. For urine, the key is a free-draining lawn and a regular rinse: water flushes the diluted urine down through the base, which is where most of it goes on a properly built pet surface.
Plain water alone will not stop a smell building up over time, though, because it does not break down the ammonia residue left behind. For that you want an enzyme-based or pet-safe cleaner, which digests the residue rather than masking it. Used every week or two in warm weather, it keeps a pet lawn fresh. Our artificial grass for dogs page goes into the full pet routine.
How often should you clean it?
There is no fixed schedule, since it depends on your garden, the weather and whether you have pets, but thinking in seasons is a helpful way to stay on top of it.
- Spring: a good brush and a rinse to freshen the lawn after winter, and a check that it is draining freely.
- Summer: rinse in dry spells to clear dust and pollen, and keep up the pet routine more often in the heat.
- Autumn: the busy season, so clear fallen leaves regularly before they rot into the pile.
- Winter: little to do; leave light frost and snow to thaw on their own rather than scraping or chipping at it.
A lawn with pets or heavy use needs attention more often; a quiet, open lawn needs very little. Let the garden tell you. If it looks or smells like it needs a clean, it does.
What not to do
A few common mistakes can shorten a lawn's life or damage it, so they are worth knowing. Keep clear of harsh chemicals, because bleach, strong solvents and acidic cleaners can discolour the fibres and break down the backing. Stick to mild soap and purpose-made grass cleaners.
Be careful with a pressure washer, too. A gentle fan spray held well back is fine for a quick clean, but a narrow jet up close will blast the infill out of the pile and can tear the fibres, so it does more harm than good. Avoid steam cleaners for the same reason, as the heat is bad for the grass. And keep anything hot, such as barbecues, firepits and disposable grills, well away, because the fibres melt and will not recover. Treat the lawn gently and it will reward you with years of easy, tidy green. If you would rather not do it yourself, our cleaning service and maintenance service can take it off your hands.
Frequently asked questions
Can you use a steam cleaner on artificial grass?
It is best avoided. The heat from a steam cleaner can soften or damage the fibres and the backing, and it is simply not needed for an outdoor lawn that rain already rinses. Warm water and a soft brush handle almost everything. Save steam for indoor carpet, not your garden.
How do I stop weeds growing in the grass?
Most weeds on an artificial lawn do not grow up through it. They seed from above, taking root in debris and moss that has built up in the pile. Keeping the surface clear of leaves and brushing it occasionally stops that in its tracks. A good weed-control membrane under the grass deals with anything trying to come up from below.
Will moss come back after I clean it?
It can, if the conditions that caused it remain. Moss likes damp, shaded, still corners where debris collects. Clearing the debris, improving airflow where you can, and brushing the area now and then makes it far less welcoming. In a persistently shady, damp spot you may need to treat it once or twice a year to stay ahead of it.